That was an unusually long delivery time

Execute console command t4210 sector area 479 process alpha 157
Execute console command c1 sector area 479 process alpha 157
Execute command c3
Execute command pc3 sector area 1 process 379;478;121;32

Result: win.

After wrestling with a few issues and getting the PC back together after installing the new motherboard, I was just about to start installing software when....the PC locked up.

This means it has to be the memory and NOT the motherboard. This is the part where you can all laugh at me for spending my money on a new motherboard before acknowledging that Corsair really are TERRIBLE.

I'm furious. After two RMAs and countless tests I thought I'd narrowed it down and I was wrong. This means I have only one working Corsair stick.

Going to try and get a refund for the memory and looking for others. Recommendations rather than mockery would be appreciated.

I think I got cheapest RAM available and never had any problems with it whatsoever. In fact don't think I've really had any issues with this comp except overheating (though can fix that hoovering out every month or so)

Mind posting what your RAM is? It might be useful.

EDIT: When a CPU is under strain or heavy use, does anyone know what sort of temperature should I expect?

I have Corsair RAM and it works perfectly, so not all of their RAM is faulty. I suspect its probably a PSU? issue then, though I'd like someone like Skillers or Aaron to confirm potential theory.

It could be a PSU issue, a dodgy voltage could really throw stability. Also, I thought you said that each stick of RAM works alright on it's own but not together? That hints something different to me, but I'm not sure. Your best bet would be to try switching the RAM with your's and your brother's computers, see if the issue occurs on which computer then.

One of the three sticks I am certain is fine.

With regards to the other two however, I am stress testing them more thoroughly...


With regards to it being a PSU issue, surely I would notice problems when I added the soundcard, or the wireless card? Or when the system was under strain only and not at seemingly random times with the suspect memory sticks in?

Also, is there any way I can test the PSU for issues other than trying it in another PC that I don't have?

Find a program that tells you voltages and keep an eye on it.

Also, with regards to PSU issues, certain things are more sensitive to voltage problems than others, and also, only certain things will give major problems if they error (a soundcard might just give a blip in sound, for instance).

After some reading it seems that software is unreliable in giving consistent PSU voltage readings and that I need to do something with a multimeter to get accurate readings. However for looking for significant instability and so on I believe software is enough. In looking at the graphs and results of what Speedfan is giving me though, I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for.

Anything that deviates wildly from the expected voltages on the 12, 5 and 3.3V readings (and their negative rails). I think 10% is considered the tolerable threshold, 5% the ideal.

According to Speedfan:

Vcore1: 1.17V
Vcore2: 1.94V
+3.3V: 3.33V
+5V: 4.97V
+12V: 1.66V


-12V: -16.23V
-5V: -2.09
+5V: 5.16V
Vbat: 3.12V

The negative voltages aren't that important (I think the readings are usually wrong), but that +12V is worrying (unless you've made a typo).

I would do a Google for your motherboard, speedfan and voltages just to see if there are any known issues with it reading wrong.

For reference, mine gives:

Vcore1: 1.10V (sometimes jumps up, this is the CPU voltage, it increases when needed, but goes down to stay cool)
Vcore2: 1.17V (not sure what this is, some people say RAM, though, but that wouldn't make sense for my reading)

Positive rails:
+3.3V: 3.30V
+5V: 4.92V
+12V: 11.84V
Note how all of these are within 2% of the expected values, this is good. And what makes your 1.66V worrying.

Others:
-12V: -11.04V
-5V: -2.84V (I don't think there is such a thing as -5V rails these days, so this is probably something else)
+5V: 4.73V (this is the standby voltage rail, used to power certain things and check for the turn on signal)
Vbat: 3.30V (this is the voltage of the watch battery used for the clock)

I may be slightly worried about your -12V rail aswell.